Edinburgh | Day 1: In which Ray and Jessie take a train ride

2016 Euro-trip

Where did we leave off?

When traveling, it’s always a pleasure to get to talk to people outside of the regular tourist zones. Today marked what is definitely our most social day so far on this trip. For two introverts, sparking up a conversation with a local is a somewhat difficult barrier to break.

That takes us to this morning. We left our rented room in the morning and ventured forth to our train station. Our train to Edinburgh left from Kings Cross station, made world famous by the Harry Potter series. The station has a little Harry Potter shop, with a statue of a luggage trolly disappearing into a wall that you can pose for a picture next to.

Our train left at 11:30. We shared a table with two English people who were getting off at Darlington, then with a man who was getting off at Newcastle. At the table across the aisle from us was an older woman heading to Northumbria, and an older couple whose destination I forget.

The woman was charming, we think her name was Alma. She had talked with the couple at her table until they left, then turned to chat at us, which was more than welcome. She talked about how much trouble she causes wherever she goes: flooding at the Victoria Station, delays on the rail we were on, and some others.

Another older man got on and sat next to her, he was clearly very diligently on his laptop, taking notes on a sheet of paper. When talking with Alma, I brought up the Brexit vote. The Brexit vote (vote for Britain to Exit the EU), the man chimed in, complaining his pension was already down significantly. Another man on the car who claims to work in politics also chimed in, talking about how pensions were going down anyways. He didn’t claim a side, but it went to demonstrate how nuanced the situation was. Even still, every person we talked to either were opposed to it, or did not claim a side. I guess we’ll see how it went in the morning.

After Alma and the politician left at their stop, we talked to the man at Alma’s table. He had apparently retired a few days, but still had a few things to finish up. He acted as a de facto tour guide, showing us the various castles, cliffs and islands off the right side of the train.

Upon arriving in Edinburgh, we quickly found our hostel after walking up an unexpectedly long close (alley-like pedestrian walkway) with several flights of stairs. We’re staying at the Castle Rock Hostel, which is at the bottom of the rock the castle was built on. Very possibly the nicest hostel I’ve stayed at. They have various lounges, depending on what kind of time you want. At this moment, we’re in the “posh lounge,” where a fellow traveller is playing piano. There’s also a “movie lounge,” where they play movies at 6pm and 9pm, and a “good vibes lounge,” that forbids computers, shoes, and has several guitars laying out.

For dinner, we went to the nearby sandwich shop Oink where they make roast pork sandwiches with some kind of sauce and dressing. I had an applesauce / haggis combination that was incredible. Jessie skipped the haggis in favor of onions and sage, which was also formidable.

In the evening we walked around Grassmarket, then around the Princes Street Garden, and then up to Calton Hill for the best view of the city. From the top, you can see all of the royal mile: Arthur’s Seat, a giant mound of land adjacent to the queen’s residence in Edinburgh, all the way up to Edinburgh Castle. The rest of the city is visible from here too, the view reaches all the way out to the bay.

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We returned just in time to group up with other people staying at the hostel for a bar crawl. Following the crowd, our first stop was the Frankenstein Pub, a Frankenstein themed bar that boasts “1818” in all of their branding. As the first edition Frankenstein had just came out in 1818, I doubt it has been there for that long. Regardless it was an interesting bar that even hosts movie nights. Along the way, we met two Danes, an Australian, an American, and an Englishman. They were all a pleasure to talk to, but the introverts in us got the better of us, and led us home.

All in all, a fairly successful day of being social.

-Ray

London | Day 4: In which Jessie and Ray See Birds & Museums

2016 Euro-trip

Another amazing day in London. Feeling so incredibly lucky to be here!

2016-06-22 11.25.39This morning we paid a visit to The Swan, a restaurant Ray remembered fondly from a previous trip, for their (huge!) English Breakfast (beans, eggs, tomatoes, sausage, and back bacon + coffee).

I about lost it when a pair of chimney sweeps came in to clean the fireplace! Granted, they carried their brushes in a golf bag and had a camera attachment to do their chimney-oscopy, but still! Ray also overheard what sounded like a private eye chatting with one of his customers. What is this place?

2016-06-22 12.03.59We took a lovely walk through Hyde Park. There was a flock of parrots hanging out around a tree. We got them to land on our hands!

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Along with a couple of pigeons, too.

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Before they flew away, frustrated that all we had to offer was grass …

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Got to check out the “Summer Houses” – little structures built by architects from around the world.

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IMG_0298We also saw loads of baby swans and ducks.

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We went to the spectacular British Museum – got to see some grand and imposing Egyptian pieces (including sarcophagi, heads of colossal statues, and sphinxes) as well as the Rosetta Stone. In lieu of going to Greece, we were able to see major pieces of the Parthenon including the marble statues depicting the birth of Athena from the pediments of the Parthenon. So astonishing the detail of the fabrics, and how accurately they captured movement in stone. Oh, and the dalek.

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Proof that time travel is real

Ended our extremely brief visit with a tour of the European gallery. One of my favorite pieces was a depiction of Jesus’ childhood, in which he killed kids that bullied him (bringing them back to life when he was inevitably punished) and pulled his friends (whose parents had locked them up to keep them from playing with Jesus) through keyholes in doors.

Next we made our way back to the Southbank, at my insistence, to see the parliament buildings, Big Ben, etc. from the other side of the river. It was rather lovely save for the enormous crowds flocked around the base of the London Eye. From there we walked over to the Tate Modern art museum. We got to see three Mondrians and a ton of political pieces from around the world, including this model of Ghardaia, a town in Algeria, made entirely out of couscous.

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We headed back to the West End to eat at Mother Mash. With a primary focus on mashed potatoes, I’d been looking forward to eating at this establishment this forever. I had “bubble and squeak” potatoes with a mincemeat pie, parsley gravy, and a dandelion soda.

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With a toffee pudding with custard for dessert. It was pretty okay.

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We’re calling it another early evening in order to get prepared for our train ride to Edinburgh tomorrow!

Signing off,

Jessie

 

London | Day 3 – In which Jessie and Ray leave Westminster

2016 Euro-trip

With our tourist credentials vetted, we decided to venture outwards, to locations a little more off the beaten paths. Consulting AirBnB’s list of things to do, we made a tentative itinerary.

After eating a breakfast of yogurt and granola, we took a series of trains to the Barbican, which is a brutalist-style complex in the City of London, not dissimilar to the original plans for Minneapolis’s Riverside Plaza.

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2016-06-21 13.03.02From there, we took the Highwalk (an open air skyway) to the Museum of London to brush up on our local history. The museum is situated on the street “London Wall” and is adjacent to ruins of the wall built around the Roman city Londinium.

From there, we took the underground to the Whitechapel neighborhood for lunch at a Pakistani restaurant. Surrounding the Royal Hospital, this neighborhood clearly had a love of food- all kinds of middle-eastern cuisine, bakeries, and dessert shops lined the road.

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Our next destination was a mile walk to the Hackney City Farm, a small farm containing a garden, several goats, two donkeys, some geese, a paddling of ducks (most white, and one gray), a cat, and two very large pigs and a litter of piglets. We came with only 10 minutes left, but they let us in with the pigs and gave us a little leeway (Thanks Frank!)

Our target for the evening was to see a show at the Arcola Theatre. They offer a pay what you can service. We hung out at the space long enough to get our tickets, and were told to come back before 8.

With a few hours to kill, we wandered to the nearby Draught’s Board Game Cafe, who stole my business idea. We tried out several new (to us) games: Kamisado and Machi Koro. With time running out, we returned to the Arcola to see Love Bombs & Apples, a four-part one man show. I don’t care to summarize it, other than to say that I was thoroughly impressed.

The night wasn’t over yet, though. Jessie and I ventured back to Draught to make the most of the cover charge we paid earlier, and finished the night there. A few trains later, we are back at our AirBnB, preparing for tomorrow’s adventure. My bet would be good food and museums, but the blisters on our feet may try to argue with us on that point.

London | Days 1 & 2

2016 Euro-trip

London | Day 1

We made it! Three in-flight meals, one viewing of Toy Story 3, eight uncomfortable sleeping positions, two hours of sleep, one layover in Frankfurt, and here we are!IMG_0261

Upon landing, we got our transit cards and hopped on a long Underground ride to our Airbnb which is … small (photo later), but works great for us! We unpacked a bit and then took the Underground to Leicester Square, where we stopped at a pub named Salisbury to grab a dinner of Sunday Roast, Pot Pie, and two pints.

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Ended up sitting next to a gentleman who, after multiple approaches from strangers, we realized must be a politician of some kind. Listened in on his conversations with constituents as we finished our food.

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Ray took me on a cursory tour of the Westminster area – saw Trafalgar Square, the Clock Tower, the gates to Westminster, the Horse Guards Parade …

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Being beyond exhausted, we embarked for home, intending to do some planning for day two while waiting to Skype with my parents, but ended up falling asleep. A half-hour late for our call (sorry, mom!) we made a quick check in with the folks before crashing for the night.


London | Day 2

This morning it was pouring rain. Stepping out the door we got soaked, RomCom-style by a passing car whizzing through a puddle. Ray graciously let me use the umbrella our Airbnb host provided us, but we decided it’d be a good investment to get another one just in case.

We took the Underground to our 10AM tour (that’s 4AM at home so we needed to grab a coffee …) which met outside of the Apple Store – handy since we didn’t bring UK power adapters!

Buckingham Palace

Buckingham Palace

Our tour was focused, we found out, on the “royal” parts of the city, so we saw the Covent Garden market (formerly Convent Garden – where the nuns grew food for the royal court … later home of the prostitution capital of the world), the monument to Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson (one-armed, one-eyed, war-fighting, Napoleon-defeating wunderkind), the Mall (rhymes with “pal” – gates to the royal compound), Prince Charles’ home, Buckingham Palace, Parliament, and Westminster Abby. We even got to see some of the royal guard exercising their horses.
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The sun finally came out as we made our way to nearby pub “Slug & Lettuce” with some other folks on our tour (including a couple from Melbourne, a couple from Connecticut, and a woman from Minneapolis!). Fish & Chips, Bangers & Mash, and 2 Pints later we made our way past the Tower of London and over Tower Bridge to take a walk along the South Bank.

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We stumbled (literally) onto a cobblestone pedestrian street, walked along the wharf, checked out the old Operating Theater, and accidentally found this tiny display of ancient ruins in the back of Southwark Cathedral (we may or may not have gone through the back door).

13th Century Stone Coffin unearthed during renovations to the church. On the upper right is a Roman Road from the 1st Century AD

13th Century Stone Coffin unearthed during renovations to the church. On the upper right is a Roman Road from the 1st Century AD

Stopped off at The Anchor, a pub with a sordid history including, so they say, being home to plague pits back in the day.

IMG_0289I then fulfilled my theater-kid duty by peeking inside Shakespeare’s The Globe. We were going to try to get “groundling” seats but everything was sold out.

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We then crossed the Millennium Bridge back to the north bank and walked around St. Paul’s Cathedral to our Underground stop which we took to Hyde park. Most of the park was closed as they are constructing a venue of some kind for a summer concert series, but we were able to catch a quick nap in the Rose Garden.

Grabbed some sandwiches and beer (Summit?!) from a deli and came back to our (tiny) space for dinner and Game of Thrones.

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Our tiny room. One corner is just to the left of Ray’s ear. The pink and green striped mattress is leaning up against the other.

aaaaand we’re … delayed …

2016 Euro-trip

Hullo friends and family! We’ve set up this blog in an attempt to keep y’all posted on our whereabouts and adventures without flooding social media for those uninterested 🙂 Check back often for updates!

So, it is 6:40PM on Saturday, June 17. Our flight was supposed to be taking off right about now. Upon arrival at the airport (thanks, Alex!) and a speedy run through security, we made our way to our gate. Making sure our life-in-two-carry-on’s would fit in the suggested carry-on size, we looked up to see that our flight is 2 hours delayed … which means we’ll miss our connection in Frankfurt. So, on the bright side, we may get an unplanned night in Germany!

Travel wouldn’t be an adventure if it weren’t for unexpected surprises. So, here we are, enjoying our last few hours in Minneapolis and sending you all our love!Photo on 6-18-16 at 6.44 PM